We explored Iceland's south coast in a campervan with our two children between February and March 2025. Niko was six, and Kai was three. Over the course of a week, we travelled as far as Stokksnes and back west, combining the south coast with the Golden Circle.
We wanted to see the landscape under snow and have a chance of spotting the northern lights. We were lucky: six of our seven days were very good. But we also waited for the weather to improve at times and ended up driving towards the airport in heavy snow.
Looking back, we remember the changing scenery and how lovely it was to return to our little home after a cold outing.
A week to explore one part of Iceland
We chose the south coast and saved a full circuit of the island for another trip. There were waterfalls, black-sand beaches, glaciers and mountains, without trying to fit every region into the same holiday.
The good weather made a big difference to what we could do. We wouldn't present our week as a checklist any family could complete in seven days: it also depended on the conditions and how we were all feeling.
Our first waterfall
Seljalandsfoss was the first waterfall we saw. We didn't visit another one that day, and it didn't feel as though we'd missed out. After picking up the campervan and sorting out the bags and the kids, that stop felt like enough.
In winter, the route you see in photographs isn't always accessible. For us, enjoying the waterfall from its base was more than enough reason to visit.
Getting soaked at Skógafoss
At Skógafoss, we had lunch in the campervan and spent a good while beside the waterfall. We didn't climb to the viewpoint: we went close to the base, got thoroughly soaked and went back to change. Having our home nearby was very handy.
We also walked out to the plane wreck at Sólheimasandur. It felt rather long, and some of us took the shuttle back. It's the kind of outing we wouldn't feel obliged to repeat if the kids were tired.
Heading out, then coming home to the campervan
With two children of different ages, it helped when a visit didn't depend on finishing a long walk. Sometimes a short stroll or the first viewpoints gave us exactly the experience we'd hoped for.
The campervan was where we came back to eat, change clothes and rest. Four of us living in it through winter also meant keeping track of warm layers and wet clothes. It made things easier, but it came with a routine of its own.
Ice, snow and a wait that changed our visit
Jökulsárlón was one of our favourite places. We walked through the snow, watched the ice and spotted several seals. Some areas were very slippery; we didn't have crampons, and we'd be better prepared for another winter visit.
At Diamond Beach, we found snow and almost no visibility. We waited in the campervan and returned an hour later in sunshine. It was quite a different visit from the one we'd imagined from the photos.
Waiting worked for us that day, but it isn't advice for dealing with every storm. Before driving, check the weather forecast, road conditions and SafeTravel alerts. On beaches, keep well back from the sea and follow the signs.
Sunset at Stokksnes
Stokksnes was our easternmost stop. We'd happily spend another sunset there. We'd also leave it out if the weather wasn't right.
We'd been keen to get that far, but the return journey needed time as well. Reaching the last pin on the map isn't worth leaving ourselves no room to get back.
Geysers and one last warm soak
On the way back, we visited Geysir and Gullfoss. The kids loved watching Strokkur erupt; it's one of the memories we brought home from that part of the trip.
We finished at the Blue Lagoon. After a week in the campervan, a warm soak was a lovely way to round things off for all four of us.
What we'd do again
We'd return to the south coast, keep the stops at the kids' pace and enjoy being able to get back into the campervan after going out in the cold. We'd give more thought to overnight stops and leave more breathing room for the return journey.
For overnight stays, check that campsites are authorised and open, along with the current rules. The fact that we once slept somewhere doesn't mean we're recommending that you stay there now.
Our Iceland travel guide covers the full route and the practical side of the trip. You can look inside at two sample pages to get a feel for it. Here, we've focused on what that week was like for us.